Fifteen years of urban cultural regeneration has seen Cardiff develop an industry of national standard. James W Roberts gets to grips with Wales' capital. Photo by James McLaren
As Wales' capital there needs little introduction to the Cardiff's integral place in Welsh culture and music. Over the last 15 or so years, some of the most successful and diverse music from these shores has had its origin in Cardiff, but for every Super Furries, Catatonia and Church, there is a varied selection of venues, labels, promoters and more creating the infrastructure for the musical health of the city to prosper and develop. The increased prominence of Cardiff's music has developed hand-in-hand with the capital's lengthy and extensive regeneration over the last 20 years - the city now basks in its urban, yet very green and European feel.
VENUES / CLUBS / CLUBNIGHTS As a capital city, Cardiff venues range from tiny to gigantic - however it seems to lack a decent mid-sized venue to cater for 600-800 capacities and also a venue in the 3500+ capacity range. That said, starting from the smallest there is DEMPSEYS - smack in the centre where more and more left-field noise and folk merchants have been plying their trade.
Dempsey's also hosts the fortnightly Saturday night indie fest TWISTED BY DESIGN, a popular alternative to the latest from the high street trends and stag and hen parties, and along with CALLAGHANS, just up the road, it has a late licence and more often than not some musical performance going on. With Wales' biggest University comes a couple of venues where the bigger NME-endorsed acts garner rapture from the sizeable student population. The GREAT HALL and SOLUS are the two venues; the bigger, former hall sometimes suffers from poor sound in its cavernous box design, whereas Solus seems to have a more intimate feel and caters for other student friendly artists. Aside from the gargantuan 60,000 capacity MILLENNIUM STADIUM that has hosted gazillion sellers U2, REM and Robbie Williams, there is the CARDIFF INTERNATIONAL ARENA, again smack in the centre of Cardiff. It hosts the big guns who attract 6,000 or more paying punters. It's within spitting distance of the Central railway station, just one of many venues that benefit from being in close proximity to access routes into Cardiff.
Away from the centre, there is the grandiose COAL EXCHANGE that occasionally hosts some great bands (such as Faust and The Fall this Autumn), and the plush and impressively cosy atmosphere of THE POINT that is starting to host more shows including Super Furries, The Stereophonics and folk nutbar Devendra Banhart.
Follow the edge of the Bay, past the monolithic MILLENNIUM CENTRE (home of classical music in Wales) and you'll see the small, but perfectly formed NORWEGIAN CHURCH, the place where Roald Dahl was christened, and which, a century after its construction, hosts gigs, seminars and workshops. Since 1983 CLWB IFOR BACH has become synonymous with promoting Welsh-language music and hosting a variety of acts and good ol' club nights. The Strokes played a famous sweaty gig to the sold-out crowd, and Coldplay trod the boards back in 2000. Despite a let-up of gigs over the last year (albeit with a core of regular punk, metal and hardcore gigs), plans are afoot to bring back the great and the noisy to Clwb's cool surrounds. In terms of club nights at Clwb, a favourite with students is POPSCENE held on a Wednesday, with three floors of indie schmindie, funk, electro etc and a good degree of cheap drinks. For the more rock- and metal-orientated, take a trip to METROS on Bakers Row. Suitably situated down a dark alley the club has become famous for cheap drinks and an unpretentious range of rock and dance in its seedy surrounds explains maybe why the Manics used to retreat here during the recording of The Holy Bible! Within crawling distance of there is THE BARFLY obviously the place to catch countless up-and-coming bands, as well as local acts and enjoy nights such as FREAKSCENE and the new INDIE KIDS DIE IN HOT BARS, where drunken underground (literally) fun can be had, and hopefully the night will be true to its word.
For more electronic tastes, MOLOKO on Mill Lane has weekly nights including Higher Learning and with two floors plus its location amidst a plethora of other bars it is worth seeking out for something a bit different. TOMMY'S BAR, hidden amidst the surrounds of the Art College at Howard Gardens, occasionally hosts some great gigs in the studentís union there, with its 400 capacity venue and bar. In many ways, along with the facilities provided by Cardiff University, the scope for students to enjoy such a variety of live music and club nights is fairly unique in Wales.
In the depths of the charmingly-titled region of Splott you will find JOURNEYS. Here you can see a dizzying range of soul, funk, jazz and electronica whilst being not too pretentious, it makes a change from the vomit and fast food debris often littering the streets of the city centre. Over by Virgin Megastore, on Churchill Way is THE UNION, offering a variety of sweaty nights. Amongst the best is UPRISING, featuring dancehall and dub every Thursday, as well as monthly nights of garage, r'n'b and hip hop called Whatz Ya Flava? Add to this the drum'n'bass of SUBMERGE and the hard house of HARDBOILED and you have quite a mix of urban and dance styles. No round-up of Cardiff's music-related leisure pursuits would be complete without a mention of CHAPTER, one of the most renowned and popular arts hubs in Wales and Europe. Typical of Cardiff, Chapter and its impressive collection of lash, cinemas, theatres and all the rooms you'd expect in a former school, is hidden deep in Canton, well away from the centre. Despite this it's well worth the trek.
RETAIL Again, this is a capital city, so there's VIRGIN, FOPP and HMV, but peer down the side-streets and, behold, 'The World's Oldest Record Shop'. Yes, on The Hayes is SPILLERS, a refreshingly old-school jumble of rare gems and multi-genre classics. Also worth checking out is KELLY'S Records in Cardiff Market, a tad of digging will reveal some cheap finds, some pretty unique vinyl and some amazingly expensive picture disks and signed paraphernalia. Zip back towards the Bay, under the bridge on St Mary's Street and find the multistorey JACOB'S MARKET, with a jumble of records and music related goods. Then there's D'VINYL, in a similar vein to Jacob's, over in the suburb of Roath, with an insane mass of records that require a feature all of their own.
Back in the centre, the High Street Arcade hosts CATAPULT, Cardiff's primary den of urban breaks and beats, a comprehensive host of vinyl and a massive catalogue from which DJs can order the latest sounds. Outside the box somewhat is SEBON, the Welsh-language, online distribution source, that also hosts nights in Clwb Ifor Bach, and is enjoying a growth in popularity. For musical equipment needs, Cardiff has many shops. Some of the most noted include the guitar shops of CRANES, ROWLANDS MUSIC and SPEED MUSIC as well as other shops catering for almost every instrument or electrical device.
MANAGEMENT One of the major forces in management in the city is ANKST MANAGEMENT, whose charges include Super Furry Animals and Brave Captain, aka Martin Carr. Down the Bay, in conjunction with the My Kung Fu empire, is BILLY BOB MANAGEMENT that looks after emerging artists including The Voices. Also, linked to MUSIC BOX rehearsal and recording studio is the independent management company of the same name. Looking after the all-girl pop group Dragonheart is PURE WICKED MANAGEMENT, while M4 MANAGEMENT are the people behind the hotly-tipped PEOPLE IN PLANES. Two others based in the city are the fast growing S&M MANAGEMENT and Roath based SOUND AFFAIRS.
LABELS Inextricably linked with pop-pioneers the Super Furry Animals, Ankst Management work with the band on the PLACID CASUAL label. As well as Gruff Rhys' own solo material and SFA remix albums, Placid Casual is the home of acts such as El Goodo and Acid Casuals.
One of Cardiff's fastest growing labels is MY KUNG FU. With its offices in the Bay, the label is just shy of two years old and has released the likes of Sammo Hung, Mountain Men Anonymous and Soft Hearted Scientists. Other notable Cardiff based labels include FF VINYL. Since their inception in 1998, the label have worked with some acclaimed bands including the Martini Henry Rifles, Mohobishopi, Betwys-y-Coed's Gabrielle 25, Amy Wadge, The Afternoons and International Karate Plus. Also making a return to the fray is the BOOBYTRAP label, hailed by Rolling Stone magazine way back at the beginning of the century and responsible for a monthly singles club that unleashed the likes of Mclusky and Zabrinski on an unsuspecting public, and are currently getting back in the swing of releasing some stuff.
The internationally successful PLASTIC RAYGUN label have, for a number of years, been keeping Cardiff at the forefront of the breakbeat scene releasing top-20 smashes and tearing up dance floors the world over. Cardiff is also home to one of Europe's premier punk labels NEWEST INDUSTRY, a local label with a truly international roster. In a similar vein, STAUNCH are a hardcore and metal DIY label currently working with the likes of Seventh Cross.
SPLIT RECORDS are a newish label looking for a variety of styles and artists to build on the success of their ex-Weezer man Matt Sharp and the new sounds of Crosbi.
New to the fray are NOISY NYMPHO RECORDS, who are currently working with a couple of Welsh artists, Ipsofacto and Aprilrise, and is a close relation of another growing label ASSOCIATED MINDS. They specialise in cutting edge hip hop, whilst FOURIER TRANSFORM offer a great selection of insane experimentica and stupidly great artwork. ACCESS TONAL COMMUNICATIONS do something similar with a glut of great leftfield electronica, whilst COMPLETE CONTROL, the touring and label wing of Community Music Wales (see Community Music section), gives artists a chance to get their noise out there to the masses.
Long-time releasers of multi-genre dance music HONKY do this as well as host club nights and up-and-coming label IMOAN RECORDS are doing something different with a 'dark entity' known as Twig. KISSAN PRODUCTIONS can boast the likes of Catrin Finch and Elin Manahan on their roster, whilst CASCADE RECORDS have been responsible for the excellent Midasuno and, more recently the hard-rocking Cardiff boys Panel.
PRESS, PLUGGING AND PROMOTION Affiliated to the My Kung Fu label, are the FULL STEAM and PLUG TWO press and plugging offshoots. They are believed to be the first mainstream press and plugging operations in Wales. Established earlier this year, BARE ENTERTAINMENT provides promotion and marketing solutions for bands and artists of all styles at reasonable prices. SHINING STAR also offer similar promotion and plugging options.
PROMOTERS As touched upon, there are a number of promoters widening the musical margins in Cardiff. Firstly, LESSON NUMBER ONE have been bringing some intriguing noiseniks to various Cardiff venue as have FORECAST, again a collection of people 'bringing the underground overground', and in the process supplying the city's venues with artists who don't normally venture this side of the Severn Bridge.
DEPCULT is a Cardiff Bay-based promotions outfit who specialise in farming out DJs to some of the UK's top clubs, and keeping with all things dance orientated, there are the influential (and Mixmag-approved) BIONIC, COOL HOUSE and BULLETPROOF, all with a mix of resident DJs, providing Cardiff with its banging nightlife. Continuing with breaks 'n' beats, SUMO hold weekly nights of breakbeat ferocity. TIME FLIES host nights at pretty much every club in Cardiff, as well as venues further afield, and HOLODECK are a collective hosting DJs and national and international artists for monthly nights of electro dance fun. HIGHER LEARNING form part of the strong hip hop ranks with regular nights in Cardiff, and LAMERICA, the renowned purveyors of US garage and house, who promote shows in Cardiff and Bristol. For some time now HUSTLER have been doing hip hop shows across the South West of the UK, including providing acts for festivals, whereas ROAR promotes nights with a more dance orientated selection of shows.
RECORDING STUDIOS / REHEARSAL ROOMS In the depths of the Canton suburb is the bunker-esque MUSIC BOX. It has become very popular with many bands in the area, with its reasonable costs, laid back atmosphere and access to equipment, including a recently installed studio. Music Box has been used by some great Welsh bands including Camera, Mclusky and Gorky's Zygotic Mynci.
Tied in with the FF VINYL label is WARWICK HALL, over the other side of the city. With rehearsal rooms from £3 and microphones, PA, kit and amps available for hire, they're a good source for practising, while they also have extensive recording capabilities.
Aspiring musicians can also check out CARDIFF SOUND SCENE, at the Cathays Community Centre, equipped with two rehearsal rooms, costing £15, per band for three hour sessions. Also located in Cardiff is STIR STUDIOS, where the Manics have laid down some tracks; it serves as an excellent studio with experienced in-house engineer and facilities including a range of digital and analogue equipment.
Another choice of studio in Cardiff is ALBANY STUDIOS with a 36 track facility and two recording areas. ATTIC Studio in Grangetown keeps up Cardiff's reputation for choice studios with a 24 track studio and IMMTECH, along with their community music offerings have a studio in the Bay. Other studios of note include BATTERY PARK, DIGITAL FLESH, the recording facilities at GRASSROOTS, SKYLINE, STUDIO 56 with THE APARTMENT STUDIOS and MADVARK offering both recording and rehearsal opportunities.
COMMUNITY MUSIC Cardiff offers a few schemes and potential avenues of help, from advice to hard resources. Tied in with the studio at CARDIFF SOUND SCENE is a community music initiative that aims to help young and aspiring bands to get some experience and ascend the ladder towards playing live and furthering their career.
One of the main avenues of community music in Cardiff and Wales is the Cardiff-based organisation COMMUNITY MUSIC WALES. Headed by Simon Dancey, the organisation based in the Fairwater area of Cardiff has trained and experienced music tutors and mentors to provide support to fledgling musicians. They also are partly responsible for curating the annual Compass Point festival in Bute Park that brings the finest urban and rock artists to the capital every August.
As mentioned IMMTECH offers a variety of community-based options for underprivileged young people and instrument and voice training in a myriad of genres and for a range of ages as well as equipment and engineering opportunities.
MEDIA Aside from Sound Nation, providing the only comprehensive outlet dedicated to Welsh music, there are numerous media organs, both radio and print that promote Welsh music. Outside the likes of the WESTERN MAIL, WALES ON SUNDAY and SOUTH WALES ECHO, where you can catch up with the bigger artists or see long lens images of Ms Church staggering along outside Flares, there are a number of up-and-coming as well as established fanzines and magazines. One of the more off-kilter and forward thinking publications is KRUGER. Conceived in 2003, Kruger is a quarterly, free publication that emphasises artistic style without compromising the substance and features off-the-wall interviews, reviews and features with a healthy focus on Welsh artists. Cardiff also has the BUZZ listings magazine that has served the city since 1991, with around 56 pages and a comprehensive listings section giving a monthly round-up of what goes on in South Wales. Also with good music coverage is THE BIG ISSUE CYMRU which always has an eye on domestic talent. Again, with the mass of students at both Cardiff University and UWIC and related institutions, there are a few media outlets that dedicate their print and airtime to music. The newspaper that serves Cardiff University is the award winning GAIR RHYDD, with a long history of informative content and a healthy degree of irreverence and humour, whilst XPRESS FM has a huge staff and extremely professional and varied content.
Webzines have their own place in Cardiff's music scene. Carrying on somewhat from the excellent but defunct Fracture fanzine, www.NEXTSTOPNOWHERE.COM is a cool look at South Wales punk and noise related garb, whereas WWW.CARDIFFONLINE.net is a more straight-talking comprehensive guide to all leisure activities in the capital.
WWW.GOD IS IN THETV.TK is a 'online cultural fanzine' with impressive layout and range of content across all cultural bases, with a focus on Cardiff happenings. OFFITSFACE.COM features reviews, interviews, forums and DJ profiles on Cardiff dance-related nightspots and WWW.CARDIFFUNDERGROUND.COM has a no-nonsense list of the gigs that will occupy your otherwise lonely evenings.
So many businesses in the Cardiff area meant that we're not able to print all their contacts here as usual. Instead, all the details are available from The Welsh Music Foundation Directory (£5 plus £1 p&p for individuals and small businesses), the Welsh Music Foundation online Directory (www.welshmusicfoundation.com) or direct from the WMF office on 029 2066 8127.
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